Ruger LCP Max purse guns all shoot 4" low because of stupid Ruger Pet Tricks!

Beyond the much higher extended mag capacity, 12+1 .380 auto Vs. 7+1 for the previous models, there are a few significant design and function improvements over all the previous LCP models as well as a couple bad holdovers,

Design & functionality: 

     FINALLY, after like 10,000 years of the same old same old, sort of like changing the tip of a carbon fiber arrow shaft from stone to modern alloy steel, Ruger has upgraded the grip serrations on the Max with wider grooves & narrower lands and a slight flange on the very rear of the slide, providing a vastly improved slide grip.

    The grip is a teeny bit wider than previous models & well worth the increased width to accommodate a double stack mag and make the grip better. 

Function:

     The ease of chambering a single round and ejection are noticeably improved. Even the hand racking feels like that action is improved, more positive. There is also tiny staubs on the inside back of the trigger guard to limit travel after the break.

    The shape of the slide catch has been improved and is easier to engage.

     And of course the trigger pull is vastly improved: the take-up is free to a solid wall at the "break"(simulated: explained later). There is a slight amount of creep in the "break", but there is a consistent break in this 1 that's fairly stiff at first but nothing that at least 1,000 dry fires didn't smooth out & significantly improve.

     There's also even a tiny click on reset which is less than 1/4" in front of the travel stop. 

  

     The previous model LCP triggers had none of these features. They were just one long pull, no wall, no break when the hammer dropped and all the way back to the far far front for the reset.

     The way Ruger accomplished the improvement apparently is by reducing the amount of hammer cock done by pulling the trigger. Most of the hammer cocking, approximately 3/4s of it, on the LCP's wasn't done by the slide coming back, but rather with the trigger pull.

      I estimate that  the amount of hammer cocking  left for the Max trigger pull to accomplish is only about 1/8, which is at the break. So the "break" is actually not that, but the final cock stage of the trigger before it falls. I assure everyone reading this that it does a pretty darn good job of simulating a trigger break that is only a tiny bit more mushy that a Glock gen 5 stock trigger, which has creep in it, unlike previous generations.

     Plus, working the Max trigger in with thousands of dry fires using a snap cap does wonders for the feel of the trigger hand racking. 

     Regarding the arduous task of dry firing a hammer fired pistol using snap caps: yes they are necessary because if you don't use then, you will snap off the hammer (BTDT).  But the good news is that just a few times loading snap caps in the mag and firing and reloading them, I found that I could, with an empty mag inserted, repeatedly rack just far enough back to reset the trigger but not eject the cap, which made it far easier and faster to perform thousands of dry fires from the clip(BTDT with my previous LCPs).

      But nothing is perfect &the Max still needs improvement, some of which I was able to accomplish myself. These are the still somewhat significant flaws (and IMO some holdover stupidity) still remaining on the Max with the trigger, and the sights: Sights strangely, both the front and rear sights are drift adjustable, but not elevation adjustable. Familiar firearms users like me see that and ask "WTF for does this thing shoot so wildly that it needs duplicate windage adjustability?"

Stupid sight tricks:

       Ruger is still putting useless 1-dot front trit night "sight", AS IF 1 dot was all it takes for a 2 element sight system to work at night. The good news is that the rear sight is long enough and wide enough to drill as big as a 1/8" holes in and put vials in the rear. 

Worse than that, I found out after taking it to the range, that at 21 feet, target impact is 4 inches low & the LCP max like most modern pistols, doesn't have any elevation adjustment (but it has front and back drift type windage adjustment!) So I complained to Ruger and sent the gun in to check out the issue.  But they wouldn't test fire it because of my trigger modifications,. Instead the sent me a new complete slide and barrel, which shoots even lower!

So I determined what the problem is and fixed it myself. The Ruger idiots put the same height front and rear sights on a slide that rises in height at the front ,so that the front sight is too tall, resulting in the 4" low strikes. There's a lot of complaints on the internet about the LCP max shooting very lows .

I corrected the problem by adding to the height of the rear sight (because the front sight would have to be filed half way down to make it the correct height) with JB Weld. The amount I had to add is a solid 1/16 "!  

 To isntal trit vials (as i did) in the back to make the front one useable, You need a carbide bit to drill into the hard steel that the sights are made of, The bit size should be precise to snugly fit whatever vials you have in a white or silver lined can of some kind for reflection. Ruger should quit being stupid & cheap & either eliminate the 1-night-dot altogether & quit insulting my intelligence or or put 3 in.

 Trigger 

 The addition of a break and a reset, while a vast improvement, happens to be the ONLY improvement to the trigger, which leaves at least 2 flaws that shouldn't be: The trigger is curved for tiny fingers. For reference The Glock OEM trigger i finds to be the perfect curve and corner slopes for tiny and large fingers alike. But the Max trigger has a lot of curve on the top, less on the bottom and is well short of the trigger guard & with less bevel on the corners, making it uncomfortable and tending to push my finger to the bottom of the trigger and down onto the guard. The extra curve is in the top to accomodate a front facing safety return spring, which tends to push one's finger to the bottom of the trigger where it is flatter and maybe even onto the inside of the guard if one's fingers are bigger. 

       I understand that the design and mount of the trigger requires a front facing spring, so Ruger should beef up the depth of the trigger below the spring in order to make the curve shallower and it should be widened a bit and the corners rounded more to resemble a Glock trigger. 

     But there is mo Max trigger trash talk I need to convey: The take-up is ridiculously and it turns out totally unnecessarily long, like 3/8". I fixed it by adding material to the frame in the pocket in front of the the trigger base and limiting the take-up to about 1/8" while not harming the functioning of the firearm, which proves my point that this enormous take-up length is absurd, unnecessary, thoughtless, irritating and nearly as insulting to my intelligence as the 1 dot trit sight. 

     I also rounded the corners more and even added material to the front tip of the trigger to make it longer. So the Max trigger seems to be Ruger's take on the trendy BS with flat face triggers & stupid useless 1 dot sights must  appeal to square fingered, blockhead Millenials that don't have a clue, can't shoot, don't get laid and are enticed by the latest fashion trends in firearms.

      I imagine that they are the ones I've heard that refer to going to the range as "having Loads of fun" and call shotguns "shotties". Personally, I go the range to practice and check the functionality and sighting of my firearms including SHOTGUNS (yes I have the energy to say outloud the entire word rather than following other ppl who can't string whole sentences and words together), which if everything works out, is something I enjoy. 

 But I typically only have "loads" of fun during sex.