Taking Care Of My Retro AR15 Replica M16A1 or "Gun Porn"

 My new TFT (Toy for Tarts) is an AR15, which I found out was invented in the late 1950s. The first ones sold to the U.S. Air Force were semi-auto like mine. Mine is an AR15 replica of an M16A1 which was selective fire (gun geek speak for a machine gun). 

The M16 is arguably the best. most effective infantry rifle ever produced because the US military and others around the world still use permutations of it (the US military uses the 4th generation, the M16A4 and the carbine version, the M4). 

But at the store shopping for my first Tart Toy, all that gen 4 lumpy, bumpy hoo-haw didn't wet my panties (if I'm wearing any) like the  long, smooth lines of the M16A1 reproduction.

 Up on the wall at the top middle of the AR store wall display was the perfect tart toy: a long, smooth, black AR15 "retro" replica of  an M16A1 rifle grabbed my full attention.

But before continuing with that, here's some more mildly interesting "background" about the birth of the M16 back in the early 1960s:
Armalite first produced the M10 7.62 mm caliber that later became the basis for the M14. But the military rejected it because of the weight of the ammunition, soldiers couldn't carry enough, according to Wikipedia. 
So along came the AR15 and then soon the M16A1 rifle with its long, hard, black barrel, a perfect match, it seemed to me later, for the LSA lubricant I'd ordered.

Off subject, I'd like to here note that during this time I learned that contrary to ignorant mass media and non-arms bearing citizens "AR" in fact stands for "Armalite Rifle,"  not "Assault Rifle."

I also found out that Colt produced the first M16s for the US military when out of money, Armalite sold the rights to Colt to manufacture the M16 for the US government. So  when it produced  its civilian version of the M16, Colt added a "C" to "AR,"  resulting in a CAR15 semi-auto version. 

Nowadays anybody and everybody is producing AR15s for the civilian market and putting their own model #s on the lower receivers, for instance mine is a"TAR-15." 

So I plunked down about $1k for my sexy Vietnam War era strap-on (doesn't it have to be that for me if feminists are correct about guns being extensions of men's penises?) & was leery of all the civilian lubricants & cleaners littering the shelves of gun stores.

Fortunately (for an intriguing  reason as you'll read further down), I  got my rifle and read the manual that came with it, which said to use something called " LSA." I should mention that the "manual" is replicated copy of the booklet issued to military infantry with their M16s in the jungles of Vietnam in 1969. 

So I searched & searched on the internet, quite ignorant of the fact that LSA had been replaced long ago in the US military with something much better, CLP, found & bought a half gallon of LSA for $8 plus shipping.The NATO part # for LSA is 0-158. The last U.S. Military # is Mil-L-4600 C.\

The people at the gun store who built my rifle to Vietnam era military specifications for the M16A1  rifle (with the exception of the M16's automatic firing capability) were like "WTF is LSA?" every time I mentioned what I used.

 
It quickly became  apparent to me, I thought, that though this store manufactured and sold all versions of the AR 15 small arms platform, they had no clue about military spec automatic weapons lubricant and had never even read the manual that they put in the box!

At this point, I'll admit, I'd probably had achieved a level of  smugness with my  "special knowledge" about LSA comparable to a supermodel making $6K a minute in the early 1980s.

So clueless & undaunted , I found some LSA, bought it, used it & discovered some quite interesting unpublished "specs" which I'd like to share.  

Note that later I finally consulted guys in the store and have since switched to CLP for my AR, which is much superior to LSA lubricating firearms, but curiously, not nearly as much fun.

The best metaphor I can think of to describe how LSA looks & acts is, (OMFG, ILI, R?), human male sperm. Though admittedly, it may only seem so to me simply because hot sperm happens to be the very biologically produced reproductive fluid & that I'm intimately familiar with. 

Indeed, LSA is semen colored & remarkably even has the consistency of male ejaculate when I squirt it on the rifle barrel & rubbed it up the long, black, hard, anodized 20-inch shaft. But even though LSA looks & behaves like semen, I'm guessing it's probably not warm.salty & oyster-like sliding down my throat.

In fact, LSA even behaves on the metal surfaces of the weapon like a load in my face! Alas, curiosity got the better of me & I squirted some on my face while looking in the mirror.

Albiet, It's  mildly entertaining to watching LSA slide down the inside walls of the lower receiver, but much lovelier feeling it's biologically produced lookalike in my receiver. I apologize for getting carried away daydreaming.

Back to the subject in hand.

So anyway, I coated the outside of the barrel, stroking the long, hard shaft like the manual says, keeping it ready to shoot.

Needless to say, neither LSA nor the civilian weapons lubricants do absolutely anything for my hair & skin.

Darn it! No LSA  perm for me tonight!

In addition, the civilian gun jizz, as well as CLP, unlike LSA, is, well, just mostly boring. But it's specs do say it won't freeze or cake on my thighs in temperatures ranging from from Arctic conditions to desert heat.

I hope this information helps all the gun jizz lovers out there. In fact, the thought just crossed my mind if whether any of the heterosexual soldiers out there have had any hesitation about using LSA that's equal to my enthusiasm for it. 

And I can get a bolt and receiver set for my strap-on ( It does have a strap, apparently though for some strange reason they call it a "sling") that allows it to shoot .22 longs. Kinda cool ,I guess, since i found out 50 NATO rounds cost me over $20. It'll shoot .223s, I'm told by the builder, too, but the .233 AR15s can't shoot the 5.56 NATO rounds which usually are cheaper because so many are made. 

With a 20 inch barrel, the muzzle velocity of a 5.56mm NATO round is 3100 fps (feet per second). 

In fact, for those who don't know, the shorter the barrel, the slower the ejaculated load's muzzle velocity.

At this point, some inexperienced readers may be wondering if the same principle of velocity applies to her/his BF's muzzle.

So, if you're wondering at this point, "does an average-length penis have lower sperm velocity at the tip than, say, than the speed of, say a 10-incher's?" 

 And what about the trajectory? Literally no one has asked any of this but I'm finding out anyway because being previously experienced with the subject, I'm eager to conduct further detailed research and then to answer my, I mean your pressing questions. 

(Later in the month)  After weeks of meticulous hands-on testing and documentation, I attest to the conclusive fact that neither the velocity, trajectory nor indeed  the volume, of the ejaculate unloaded on/in/up/around the intended target (me) depends upon the length and/or girth of the dispenser, but rather it's hardness.

Nor, during the test period, did the quality of the sperm perms I received.

An AR15  is effective out to 800 yards, according to internet literature, with iron sites and at 300 yards goes through steel helmets like butta, they say. 

At 100 yards or less it tumbles when it hits flesh because the ballistic round is heavier in the back and it rips a gawdawful hole through people many times the diameter of the round and the FMJ also fragments into about 6 pieces. At 300-plus yards though, allegedly, it could go straight through the entire squad of "soldiers" lined up that night behind me, taking turns.

And I want to get somebody to teach me out how to tie into a shooting position U.S.M.C Hammer style (but You Can Touch This). My uncle told me about this when I was a little girl but never showed me. I never heard of it again, but my unc never lied to me. It's undoubtedly a technique used by Oswald when he shot Kennedy but I can't find anybody who knows.

Then after all that is done, and I'm capable with it,  I'm taking it to a civil rights march in Texas and if anybody starts shooting cops with one while I'm there with mine,  I'm going to run, hide and simper like a two year old school girl and do nothing to help the policemen who are dying trying to protect my pretty, but sorry tush.

OK I admit it, I've inserted utterly disgusting filth in  this blog. But I swear I have not make any of it up. The fact is that LSA Is A Lot like the literal gallons (I'm expertly guessing, though I've not kept a definitive record) of all the biologically produced LSA-like substances over the years that have been deposited  on, in and around me, but only in private settings. 

Well mostly private or somewhat private. Or sometimes public settings under the early rising sun. Or in mid or late mid early morning or afternoon. But definitely never at dusk. I would never do that. --(last paragraph has been plagiarized and from an old Steve Martin bit about smoking pot)

Abyss Creations Real Doll purchase critique and bad experience with staff, details

This is my own HONEST review of my own doll that I paid $7400 for with a cleaning kit  an inferior $400 doll stand, which I will go into detail about after I write about the $400 I paid for face and body freckles THAT MICHAEL WILSON AND SAMUEL PFAUTH  bilked me out of, claiming that the doll they sent has the freckles I ordered. (IN fact Pfauth responded to my complaint by calling me a liar and a psycho).

above is the photo of my doll's face that they sent me that is supposed to be just like the picture below taken from the website. For comparison (there is none!)... None of the makeup on my doll is as vivid as in the doll's on the website, especially the lips and the eyebrows.

This post has been mostly about the Abyss's Abysmal rude "service and lack thereof from Pfauth and then Wilson, followed by being totally ignored by The owner, which I am truncating. instead, I'm adding more information about all the flaws in this doll that's NOT NEARLY the quality and features I EXPECTED for $7k.

Freckles Update: actually there are tiny, sparse freckles so tiny and sparse that they cannot be photographed or seen more than from a foot away on the face and body, which I saw for the first time after a week.  I eventually got a $400 refund for the nearly non-existent "freckle" job. My mistake in the order, which Pfauth pointed out ad nauseum was to give the instructions that the freckles should be "lighter" and that I left it up to the artists disgression which got me about 10 barely visible "freckles" for $400!

other issues with Real doll and my order:

first, My doll's features: Aimee 3.0 face (makeup, nails hair etc.); Type F body; light tan skin; HD perky 2 nipples, light red; fixed vagina, type C; medium pubic hair, brown; freckles on face and body. special freckles instructions:" slightly darker than skin color light freckles on face and body. you can use your discretion on the freckles to artistically render the above freckle description because I have no artistic talent whatsoever "

#1 aesthetics issues:

a) Note that my picture is taken with daylight flash, But that under interior lighting, my doll's skin is grey, ashen zombielike and doesn't match at all the light tan samples sent to me that it's supposed to be, UNDER THE SAME LIGHT!

b) There's many or more noticeable, seeable, feelable mold seams remaining on the Real Doll as there were on my cheap TPE doll. Under most light, these seams show up in photographs (moreso than the "freckles"!). i don't think anyone can credibly argue that I'm seeking unobtainable "perfection" when I say that On a $7k doll, these seams shouldn't be noticeable at all, but they are. The seams run down the inner thighs & legs & down the inner arms. I'm pretty sure that Pfauth  purposefully instructed and Wilson approved the employees  to leave the seams. It's either that or all Real Dolls look like this.

C) magnet missing on the back of the face. On the magnetically mounted face of my doll, there are pockets in the back of the face for mounting round metal magnet disks that correspond to places on the (crudely designed) "skull". They didn't put a magnet in the pocket under the chin. as a result My doll's mouth cannot be posed open or closed because it is not attached to the lower jaw which can be opened or closed , kind of because the lower jaw "hinge is a very cheap generic Philips head panhead screws that do not adjust well to obtain enough friction between the Jaw and the "skull" to reliable keep the jaws in any position and even if I could position the jaw open or closed, the lips would still be slightly parted, BECUASWE THE FACES IS NOT CONNECTED TO THE LOWER JAW WITH the magnet that they left out!

Regarding the missing magnet, I'd like to bring up Wilson's reaction to my complaints about the flaws in my doll and Pfauth's treatment of me. Wilson said he personally inspected my doll (and found no problems with te way Pfauth treated me in email, calling me names,  and approved shipping it, which means that he purposely , dishonestly  approved all of the flaws and missing parts that it came to me with or without. Furthermore he later approved or at least did not respond to my complaints that Pfauth has refused to sell me any Real DOll products since, INCLUDING repair kits to fix the flaws they shipped my doll with!

 d) The hands are small & the fingers are short. Wires in several fingers poke out of the finger tips WHICH IS EVEN DESCRIBED IN THE MANUAL to happen! So while the hands look (and feel) picture perfect (albeit with short stubby fingers instead of long graceful ones) they cannot be posed.

d)The body is too long or the legs are too short or maybe it's the visual effect of the aforementioned thunderous thighs leaving me with that illusion, IDK.

f) on the stand, my doll has a wide forward leg stance  that's difficult to impossible to alter, as do all the Real Dolls on the $400 meathook "doll stands", I've seen, which have the same nasty posture. Soto restate the posture issue with the legs, they don't stay nearly close together, nor will they stay back under the upper body center of gravity, thus can't be made to look elegant and feminine. My Doll is 5'1" & the torso appears too long & the legs too short, although that  may only be because of the visual effect of this doll body having thunderous thighs.

g) The head has teeth, a tongue &an opening jaw (very difficult to open) which won’t stay open or closed, it seems to be "the luck of the draw"! how to keep it open or closed isn't in any manual & won’t tell me how. The bottom tiny silicone "teeth" just sit in the mouth on top of a razor thin non-realistic hard white lower "jawbone" without being anchored to it in any way. The teeth are pale grey like a "before" picture of somebody who got teeth whitening treatment!  The teeth are not imitation teeth at all, instead only little rubber (silicone) replicas that are much softer than the doll’s hard lips and face and silicone skin! in fact the softest most pleasant to touch parts of this doll are the nipples, the tongue and the teeth. It would be nice if the list of soft parts also included the breasts, the lips, the tummy, the pubic mound,and  the fake looking earlobes that look like they just gave up on achieving hyper realism and covered them with a wig. 

So if I had a fetish for feeling up women's  tongue, nipples, hands, and hair only, this doll would be extremely satisfactory for "feeling up" because everything else, even the teeth, feel really WRONG!

Warning if anybody still orders a Real Doll even after reading this, get a face that includes the entire head instead of just a face because the interchangeable faces have a big ass gap between the ugly not human looking neck and where the face ends under the chin especially if you try to close the lips. 

in order to close the lips on mine, I have to wedge cardboard between the top of the neck and the inch wide cap to the facemask  underneath the chin to push them closed. I also had to Sil-poxy glue under the chin to the lower jaw so that articulating the "jaw" opened and closed the lips.

 Then ,to open the mouth and make it stay open somewhat, I have peel back the back side of the facemask at the left "ear" to expose the phillips head screw holding the lower "jaw" to the "skull" and tighten it  more3 while holding the jaw open. I can only screw tight the jaw on the left side of the face now because I had to Sil-poxy the right side of  the facemask to the "skull" at the jaw screw because the facemask on that side was weirdly flaired out away from the "skull" and looked really bad!  So I glued the face on that side to the skull to hold it correctly and now can't access the "jaw" screw on the right side!

h) I ordered the HD perky 2 nipples because I wanted some really cartoonish poky ones. That's their largest nipples & there are no pictures, just measurements. Turns out they aren't nearly as big as the stats claim. The published measurements indicated that the HD perky 2s should be cartoonishly big. However, the listed 11/16" length turns out to be from the back side of the areolas and includes the 1/8" thick. The result of thuis fudge is that the nipples actually only stick out 9/16" rather than the stated 11/16".  Regarding nipple diameter, listed as 3/8" diameter, that measurement turns is ONLY at the very base of the nipple at the areolas. After that they cone rapidly down to 1/4". Also , the nipples are somewhat translucent.

i) the color of the labia minora has completely gone and they are now about the same color as the doll skin, probably lighter with no redish or brown or pink tint left whatsoever.

j) No place on the doll including the neck, ears, vagina, except where noted later, not even the lips are “kissable” because the silicone is so hard that the face is made of that it’s like kissing one of those hard store manikins. The tongue and nipples are soft & I wish the rest of the doll was like that but it isn’t.

k) My supposed hyper realistic Aimee 3.0 doll ,with Type F body, has ears that look like greatly enlarged Barbie Doll (not realistic looking) ears! I had, prior to this Real Doll, a TPE doll, while Disproportioned in every way, extremely difficult to keep clean (and repeated cleaning breaks it down) nevertheless had MUCH more realistic looking ears than my Real Doll that were soft& kissable & I liked to play with them. Not so at all with this Real Doll because it's ears are fake looking & hard.

l) The inside of the vagina is just tapered out holes, not realistic at all feeling or visually. The anus on the other hand seems to taper inward between narrowly placed hard, probably steel skeleton parts.

m) The wig & the makeup,  while supposedly ordered and created "as pictured" according to online pictures of the Real Doll Aimee 3.0, the makeup is extremely light compared to the pictures to the point that , unlike the pictures, it could be  considered a "natural" look. The wig is different color and much longer.

n) Aimee has the  gigantic puffy (hard) labia majora of a grossly overweight woman that swallows the labia minora, rendering my choice of the inner lips futile since they can barely be seen at all. on the other hand, I will admit that the extremely puffy LM's look good from behind when the doll is posed on all 4's

o) The "skin" is much  less lifelike to touch than cheap TPE doll skin is. Also, Unlike as is claimed in the manual, powdering the doll does nothing for the "skin feel" . The rest of the skin is silicone hard, barely jiggleable, much less so that the cheap TPE doll and admittedly less sticky but still sticky like the TPE doll. it is easily cleaned while the TPE dolls absorb every bit of dirt of almost every type.

p)Head neck  design issues:  IMO The head is slightly too big for the 5'1" body, though Pfauth said they matched. The worst issue here is that to tilt the head down at all, the neck has to tilt forward.

q) because of the primitive cheap head and neck design the head cannot tilt from side to side and the result is the inability to pose the doll in a semi supine position with an arm hold up the upper torso while tilting the head so that the face is perpendicular to the horizon (*straight up and down) because the head does not tilt side to side!

hands:

r) unlike photos I've seen (which were actually real models posing as dolls, Real Dolls cannot hold anything in their "hands" and the wire core "fingers "are un-bendable in any direction, therefore the hands are completely un-posable.

accessories issues:

#1 The doll stand isn't made for dolls! It appears to be just some stand they picked out that can hold the weight & a couple of inadequate attachments added, then labelled a "premo" doll stand. It doesn’t adjust properly height-wise to my 5'1? doll. The height adjustment is every 6 inches, which leaves the doll’s feet too firmly planted on the floor or floating. If one looks at RD studio pictures and videos, the dolls on this stand one can see they don't stand in a natural posture, but rather literally hung  forward, pelvis back like stumbling frozen zombies. For $400 I expect a stand to make a $7000 doll to look natural when mounted on it, but these stands don't unless I place extra padding between the butt &the stand to push the pelvis forward more & eradicate as much as possible the zombie look.

b)Furthermore, the optimum position for the stand's back rest always winds up at the joint between the top and bottom part of the pole, WHERE IT CANNOT GO. Then to keep the doll's pelvis straight in relation to the body above, I have to tape together the aforementioned  thick pad made of a towel in the middle of the lower pole and position it behind the butt. Keep in mind that this stand that does not work well at all costs $400.

c) nobody can see admire or photograph Real Dolls from behind while "standing" because of the required doll stand blocking the view.

Problems I have with my doll and a small taste of what I endured with staff to get it:

So Pfauth, I mistakenly thought, to avoid possible professional repercussion , threw me, the customer "under the bus", blaming his lapse, the absent freckles, on me & said he was severing all contacts with me & the company by blocking my IP address and refuses to sell me any repair products. apparently Pfauth runs the company.

Pfauth and another former Real Doll employee , Catherine, have been fond of reacting to my numerous, legit criticisms this way (before production began) "if you're so unhappy with your purchase, we'll return your money (minus a 10% fee) and you can go buy all the TPE dolls you want and we'll never do business with you again or answer your emails."  as if Real Dolls are all perfection incarnate, I have no right to criticize them in any way at all and I should just STFU and not buy their products if I persist in pointing out the things that could be better or changed.  And after production began " you can sell it to so- and so, I'll give you the link and Real Doll will never do business with you again or answer your emails" which they've made good on even though I have an outstanding issue with not getting a feature I paid $400 for.

 Pfauth and Catherine before my purchase,  also reacted the same, having the gall to say "nobody else has any difficulty" (my reply was maybe nobody else even finds half of the options and information that is scattered all over hell and gone on the website, Indeed I told Pfauth about things I found on HIS website that he ADMITTED were new to him!) way when I criticized the website, which is so chopped up and convoluted that it took me about 3 months to discover all the doll options and get my order finalized. As far as I am concerned the score is one down (Catherine) and one to go, (Pfauth) at Real Doll & The company & customers would be a lot better off. Pfauth plays super nice throughout but then turns into a completely nasty, unprofessional creep at the slightest hint of criticism of Real Doll, the website or the product or when he makes a (huge) mistake on an order, as he did in my case. The sad kicker for me up until this writing is, Pfauth has been my only interface as my order was in pre-production, and production. and still is, even though I have an outstanding eff-up on my order that is his fault.

My conclusion is that Real Dolls are made to look at (but not on  the inferior stand unless it's modified) but never to touch lest any momentary illusion one may have that they may be real, is utterly destroyed. Having said  that I DON'T RECOMMEND any other brand or material (Real Dolls are made of platinum cured silicone) because each has  different drawbacks, some of which I've listed here. All in all, IMO the most important aspect of a full size "love doll" is visual realism & I'm mostly  satisfied with my REAL Doll  in that respect .

As for Sam Plauth's incompetence rudeness and unprofessionalism, I think it's unfortunate that he remains working at an otherwise good company that has the first and best love doll, sex doll or whatever that is nevertheless far from perfect.

In fact, I consider the $1,100 I paid my 5/'6" TPE doll , with all the options and including shipping , a total waste that should have been saved for a Real Doll or just bills. Turns out, and if I'd ordered the same tpe doll from a US based website instead of going directly to China on Alibaba and ordering the same doll, the TPE doll I got would have cost me $3k almost as much as a Classic Real Doll! To get to get a 5'6" TPE (or tin cured silicone) doll, the cheapo manufacturers simply add 5" to the lower legs! The upper arms were hyper long and the forearms super short as well. and that wasn't nearly all the issues, but I will stop because this "reply" is really a review of my Real Doll (that is my Abyss Creations llc Real Doll and it's products, not the plethora of el cheapo copies)